Camping guides
Detours | Trekking New Zealand’s iconic Routeburn Track
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While cruising around New Zealand in a campervan, Rowena took some time to swap four wheels for two legs and have an adventure on one of New Zealand’s Great Walks. Here’s how she got on walking the South Island’s iconic Routeburn Track – be sure to take notes if you’re looking for a detour of your own. New Zealand has an abundance of hikes – or tramps, as they’re known locally – to choose from, whether you’re a hardcore hiker or simply after a view. But Aotearoa’s tried-and-tested gems are the 10 Great Walks, which are described by the Department of Conservation (DOC) as ‘premier tracks that pass through diverse and spectacular scenery’. I knew I wanted to complete at least one of these multi-day adventures while exploring New Zealand in a campervan.
In the end I opted for the Routeburn Track, which takes in the Otago and Fiordland regions. It’s described as an intermediate walk taking two nights and three days to complete. The track can be walked in either direction, but I chose to start at the Routeburn Shelter (on the Glenorchy side) and end at The Divide (on the Milford side). As this a one-way tramp rather than a loop, I arranged a transfer, through Info & Track, departing from and returning to Queenstown. More on this later.
Where to stay on the Routeburn Track
While hiking the Routeburn Track, you can choose to either camp in a tent (BYO, please) or stay in a DOC hut. As I’m driving around New Zealand in a campervan, I don’t have any camping gear for overnight stays, so I opted for the DOC huts and hired additional equipment from Small Planet Sports in Queenstown. A few days prior to departing, I’d realised that my waterproofs weren’t actually waterproof, so my list of rental equipment included non-negotiables like a sleeping bag, a 60L backpack and waterproofs.
How to get to and from the Routeburn Track
Because the Routeburn Track is a one-way walk, trampers will need to arrange a transfer for either themselves or their vehicle. Don’t stress – there are plenty of options. Most departures are from Queenstown, but you can choose to transfer from Te Anu or Glenorchy instead. And if you’d prefer to drive your campervan to the start, and know your valuables are secure in the DOC car park, you can hire a company to [relocate your campervan](https://www.fiordlandoutdoors.co.nz/blog/car-relocation-fiordland-great-walks/# :~:text=Car%20relocation%20Routeburn%20step%20by%20step%3A&text=Pick%20up%20a%20secure%20lockbox,moved%20to%20the%20track's%20finish.) so it’s waiting for you at the finish.
Remember that you’ll need to ‘check in’ at one of the Department of Conservation sites before beginning any Great Walk. For the Routeburn Track, this can be done in either Queenstown or Te Anu.
Routeburn Track itinerary
Day 1: Routeburn Shelter to Routeburn Falls Hut After arriving at the trailhead, it was a relatively easy first day, mostly flat and sheltered walking through beech forest with views of the Humboldt Mountains. Only a steep, short incline for the final hour of the day before reaching Falls Hut, where we were nestled above the trees and could see for miles.
Time: 4 hours
Distance: 9.8km
Day 2: Routeburn Falls Hut to Lake Mackenzie Hut This was a challenging, but rewarding, second day with a steep walk out from Falls Hut before reaching Lake Harris and the highest point of the track, Harris Saddle (1225m). A nice, steady descent followed, giving the legs a break through the exposed and windy Hollyford Face. The day’s final destination was the hut at Lake Mackenzie, a beautiful spot right by the water.
If you have the energy, be sure to tackle Conical Hill, which is an optional, two-hour return climb from the Harris Saddle. It’s steep, but totally worth it thanks to panoramic views across the Hollyford Valley.
Time: 6 hours
Distance: 11.3km
Day 3: Mackenzie Hut to The Divide Shelter A very challenging and tiring final day, especially after two nights of interrupted sleep. You start the day descending to Earland Falls and, shortly after, Lake Howden. A short but challenging incline follows, which I definitely wasn’t prepared for. Fortunately, the track turns off after the Key Summit and its smooth sailing downhill through the beech forest until you reach The Divide, where the walk ends.
If you have the time, add a detour to the Key Summit. This optional, one-hour return walk offers breathtaking views of the Darran Mountains and Hollyford Valley.
Time: 5 hours 30 mins
Distance: 12km
How much it costs to walk the Routeburn Track
I loved walking the Routeburn Track and I’d absolutely recommend it to anyone. That said, it wasn’t cheap. Here’s a breakdown of my expenses (per person) for the two-night/three-day adventure:
DOC huts (two nights): $204 pp
Secure campervan parking (four nights): $122pp
Return transfer from Queenstown: $141pp
Rental equipment (sleeping bag/backpack/waterproofs): $114pp
Food: $40pp
Total cost: $621pp
Again, this isn’t necessarily cheap, but trust me when I say it’s 100% worth it!
A final tip for walking the Routeburn Track
In hindsight, I probably would’ve walked the Routeburn Track in the other direction, from The Divide Shelter to Routeburn Shelter. I say this for two reasons:
You can enjoy a short, easy final day from Routeburn Falls Hut to Routeburn Shelter and it's all downhill.
The transfer from Routeburn Shelter to Queenstown ends up being two hours quicker, which means you’ll be reunited with your camper in no time right when you’re tired and in desperate need of a shower.
So, if you’re planning a trip to New Zealand, take my advice and make time for a short break from your campervan to explore on foot. You’ll be rewarded with spectacular scenery that campervans just can’t reach.